Repairing the pitted and spalled concrete in your garage is easier than you think. Learn how to get back your nice smooth garage floor in less than a day. I was TERRIFIED to pour self levelling cement over my kitchen floor but after reading a ton about it online I did it. And it worked GREAT. Tutorial here. How to Repair a Concrete Floor 1. Counter Strike 1.6 Cs Deathmatch. Steps with Pictures1. Determine the scope of the problem. The illustrations in this article show a repair where a slab reinforcing bar was too near the surface, and the concrete cracked. Other possible problems may include the following. Ridges or humps left by the finishers. Expansion or contraction cracks. Though often overlooked, your garage is one of the most important rooms in the house. Its also one of the largest. It gets used several times everyday. It acts as. Dont be intimidated by garage floor repairs. Save money by learning how easy it is to repair cracks and pitting in your concrete floor. Properly installed concrete should have joints that prevent this unsightly cracking. For a 4 inch thick slab, joints should be spaced 8 to 1. If jointing is not sufficient, or improperly placed, cracks can occur. Typically these cracks are not structural and only need to be repaired for aesthetic purposes. Debris like chunks of wood floating out of the concrete while it is still plastic wet. Damage caused by heavy objects being dropped on the slab before it is cured. Surface scaling caused by improper finishing or freezing temperatures during curing. Scaling is when parts of the concrete surface flake away. Use a ruler to determine the length and width of the area to be repaired if the condition does not define itself. This may include bumps, depressions, or ridges. Garage floor leveling methods range from easy fixes such as leveling compound to costlier yet effective methods like slab jacking. How To Patch A Garage Cement Floor' title='How To Patch A Garage Cement Floor' />Small areas of shallow surface irregularities may be concealed with a floor leveling compound, rather than chipping out and replacing the actual concrete. Chip the surface of the concrete to remove any high material, and to create a rough surface for the repair cement mixture to bond to. For small jobs, a chipping hammer will be all you need, but larger repairs are much easier with an electric chipping hammer or even a jack hammer. Professionals also use grinding machines to prep the surface for repairs. Clean the dust and debris from the area you have chipped. This will allow the new material to have a solid surface to adhere to. A wire brush is a good choice for this step. A stiff bristled broom or paintbrush will also work. Depending on the age and condition of the concrete chemical cleaning may be required, it is best to consult a pro. Rhel 5 For 32-Bit. Strike Fighters 2 Planes on this page. Mix the cementsand material you will use to fill in the area you have chipped out. Mix the dry ingredients first, using a proportion of 1 part Portland Cement type I or II to 2 12 parts clean masonry sand. Add a latex or polymerized liquid bonding agent to the dry sandcement mixture, using enough to thoroughly wet the material and bring it to a stiff, plastic consistency. Note that some bonding agents are applied directly to the area to be patched, like glue, so follow the instructions on the manufacturers label. Wet the area where the patch is to be applied with clean, fresh water. Do not flood the area, but make sure all surfaces are dampened, to assist in adhering the new cement mixture, as well as keeping the mixture from drying too quickly. Dry surfaces simply draw the moisture from the cement mixture too quickly, and will cause it to shrink, and ultimately, to crack. Scoop some of your cement mixture out of your mixing container with a bull nosed pointing trowel or other suitable tool. Place the mixture into, or on the patch location, and work it into the space forcefully with the trowel to force out any air bubbles. Level the surface of the wet cement with the trowel, leaving it slightly higher than the adjacent edges, to allow for settling and shrinkage. Allow it to dry and become stiff for an hour or so, depending on humidity and temperature. Trowel the area with a steel finishing trowel when the patch material has become stiff. This will flatten and smooth the surface, and cause cement paste to rise to the surface. Very large, deep areas may be floated with a magnesium float to bring more cement paste up. This paste is the material that forms the surface of the finished slab. Give the area another hour or two so that it sets up, or becomes hard, then finish trowelling it. At this point, you may need to splash a little water on the surface to slow the drying, as well as making the finishing process somewhat easier. Use the edge of your trowel to shave, or scrape off any of your cement mixture which has spread to the adjacent, finished surface. Another good choice for patching materials are hydraulic cements. They usually set up in less than 3. Clean your tools, and remove any excess material.